Friday, August 22, 2014

"Who lives sees, but who travels sees more" - Arab proverb


It’s more difficult for me to now say what my overall expectations of the country and its people were. In retrospect, I should have written down my imaginings about Japan and what it would be like before leaving the States. I suppose I had general expectations about the themes/motifs that would be popular in souvenirs and such: shrines, Buddha, cranes, koi, frogs, etc. I knew from others’ accounts that the cities would be very crowded, and that the weather (since we were visiting during the peak of summer) was going to be rough. I knew to expect every possible type of public transportation, although in hindsight I realize that my experience with the subway system in Europe in no way could have prepared me for the subways, trains, portliners, taxis, buses, etc. that can be found in Japan, or for the sometimes 30+ minute transits – standing room only - one might experience when traveling between cities or suburbs. Really, the public transportation system in Japan is one of the most complex and extensive I could ever imagine, and definitely takes practice and sharp observational skills to master (I cannot say that I mastered it before we left). Beyond these very broad, pre-conceived notions of Japan, which were told to me mostly by others who’d been there before, the only real expectations I had were probably derived from the Japanese American culture I experienced growing up in my family.
The following is a table depicting some of the habits/traditions my family has taught me over the years, which I have come to associate with our heritage, and how they were similar or different in our home country:

Tradition in my family
Tradition in Japan
Saying ‘itadakimasu’ and ‘gotsasama’ (crude spelling of how we pronounce it) before and after meals, respectively
Although ‘itadakimasu’ was correct, the actual pronunciation and spelling of the after-meal phrase is ‘gochisou-sama deshita.’ Either I had misheard the second phrase my entire life, or my family has adopted an abbreviated/slang version of it over the years
Using hashi (chopsticks) for a few meals
Using hashi with every meal (forks are generally only available upon request)
Offering incense at shrines and temples in remembrance of our ancestors, accompanied by a specific bowing technique, and the adding of a small pinch of incense to burning embers in a box
Incense is supplied at temples/shrines as a cleansing ritual – visitors literally waft/wave the smoke over themselves before entering holy places. There is a similar cleansing ritual involving water fountains and the rinsing of hands and mouths at all of the temples/shrines as well. I have never seen the water ritual before. Incense sticks could be lit and placed in a large urn at some places
Drinking hot (or iced) green tea on special occasions
Hot and iced green tea, as well as an immense variety of green tea flavored sweets, baked goods, etc. were available everywhere
Eating ‘cha-cha-ma-ma,’ a dish of rice with hot green tea or cold water
None of the KGU students that I spoke to had ever heard of such a thing
Sunny side up or otherwise fried egg served over rice
Also found in Japan – one of Mai’s favorite dishes too!
‘Udon’ and ‘Yakisoba’ are singular dishes with no variation
‘Udon’ and ‘soba’ actually refer to the different types of noodles – prefixes are added to the beginning of each noodle name in order to indicate the particular type/preparation of noodle being eaten – I had no idea there were so many variations with the same types of noodles. The yakisoba in Japan was generally sweeter with more spice than the preparations we make at home
Yukatas are worn on special occasions (full kimonos are rare)
Yukatas are also worn on special occasions, but also casually in public
Everyone pretty much sticks to their natural, black/dark brown hair and brown eye color
A large number of people had orange, bleached, or otherwise totally dyed hair, coupled with colored contacts
Hosting and gift giving are key
Same – if anything, our hosts from Kobe and Osaka were like my family on overdrive! Their generosity is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before in my life
Shoes should be taken off when indoors (indoor slippers are optional)
Many people at restaurants and places of residence (like the hotel) took their shoes off indoors. Slippers were provided on occasion. One of the temples we visited required the removal of shoes to enter.

I think that’s most of them – I will add more if any others occur to me!

As far as my actual experience and enjoyment of our visit goes, to say that I’m grateful for this trip would be a gross understatement. I cannot imagine a better group of travel companions, more gracious and welcoming hosts, or a more meaningful trip abroad.
Every day brought new ideas, beautiful scenery, rich history, local cuisine, and all around splendor to my life. Every shrine and temple we visited had its own unique history, atmosphere, and beauty, and the unique balance between nature and humanity found in each area was nowhere better reflected than at these places of worship and reverence. Every city brought new sights, smells, foods, architectural giants, and shopping opportunities (my favorites for souvenirs were Asakusa in Tokyo, and near one of the shrines in Kyoto). Every day brought me closer to my travel companions and the KGU students, forever imprinting them in my mind and on my heart. Every step took me back through time and space to my ancestors and the family I might still have somewhere in the country. Every hour created unforgettable moments and lifelong memories that I will carry with me always. In short, it was everything I could have asked for in my first trip to a country that I have long wanted to visit, and I would not change a single second of it.  

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